2mm’s, and why I do them., other than I can’t be arsed to spend hours/weeks on painting 6 blokes that no one can see on the table once they get 2 or 3ft away.
First of all, I would like to think that the gang are willing to try anything new, possibly controversial, or downright silly, but hopefully provides a bit of entertainment or pleasure on a Friday night, amongst the general guffawing, buffoonery and man talk.
So what are my reasons for down-sizing to 2mm -
Storage – no, I’m not saying have the Imperial Guard in a trouser pocket or the Army of Northern Virginia in a man thong (I like to keep them warm, but salty..they must have served near the sea)..no lugging boxes up and down lofts, cupboards, several trips back and forth loading/unloading cars at the venues. I have an Austrian Corps, artillery, cavalry in an old tape cassette box, and room for another level or two.
Cost – dirt cheap..nuff said
Painting – once you have sussed out a way to do this, its dead easy and quick..grey under coat..I tried black once but it looked like a burnt match and couldn’t see anything (!)
Trousers first, coat, dab of flesh for face then hat. Thin lines drawn across figure strips, virtually dry brush. Detail not relevant (cos there aint none!). You are not trying to make display models, but playing pieces.
This brings me nicely onto the next bit..why 2mm?
Whatever the scale, period, scenario, our figures represent a given number of men, covering a given area of ground. For example, 24 Napoleonic infantry are supposed to represent a unit of about 500 men strong. The same goes for 9 cavalry figures for a 300 strong regiment. They are placed in a town area for instance, with a couple of buildings, which represents a given area of a town or village. A hill model represents one or several contours, that never appear as several ‘steps’ up to the top. Do you see what I am getting at? I’ve never seen a WW2 tank the same length as a street in a town, but there it is on the table!
So, whatever the size of the unit, in whatever period, they are just playing pieces, as are poker chips, chess pieces, draughts etc.
These 2mm toys I have been doing are just playing pieces. Not highly detailed models that look great close up, a short distance away or on a display cabinet.
Where was I? Oh yes..
Size of table – One can have a reasonably sized game on a 6’ x 4’ table, with enough room behind players to get past without causing a standing Mexican wave when players have to make room for someone to get past. Also no crawling under tables, none of us are getting any younger. My first game (oh no I hear the cry) will be on a table that size.
Larger games can go on a 6x6..
I like to think this scale is a hybrid between war gaming as we know it, and a board game. We quite happily play with board games on our trips away. This could be a 3D version of a board game!!
Article by Dave Vallance
First of all, I would like to think that the gang are willing to try anything new, possibly controversial, or downright silly, but hopefully provides a bit of entertainment or pleasure on a Friday night, amongst the general guffawing, buffoonery and man talk.
So what are my reasons for down-sizing to 2mm -
Storage – no, I’m not saying have the Imperial Guard in a trouser pocket or the Army of Northern Virginia in a man thong (I like to keep them warm, but salty..they must have served near the sea)..no lugging boxes up and down lofts, cupboards, several trips back and forth loading/unloading cars at the venues. I have an Austrian Corps, artillery, cavalry in an old tape cassette box, and room for another level or two.
Cost – dirt cheap..nuff said
Painting – once you have sussed out a way to do this, its dead easy and quick..grey under coat..I tried black once but it looked like a burnt match and couldn’t see anything (!)
Trousers first, coat, dab of flesh for face then hat. Thin lines drawn across figure strips, virtually dry brush. Detail not relevant (cos there aint none!). You are not trying to make display models, but playing pieces.
This brings me nicely onto the next bit..why 2mm?
 |
| Example of a wonderfully painted 2mm army - helpfully supplied by Nigel! |
Whatever the scale, period, scenario, our figures represent a given number of men, covering a given area of ground. For example, 24 Napoleonic infantry are supposed to represent a unit of about 500 men strong. The same goes for 9 cavalry figures for a 300 strong regiment. They are placed in a town area for instance, with a couple of buildings, which represents a given area of a town or village. A hill model represents one or several contours, that never appear as several ‘steps’ up to the top. Do you see what I am getting at? I’ve never seen a WW2 tank the same length as a street in a town, but there it is on the table!
So, whatever the size of the unit, in whatever period, they are just playing pieces, as are poker chips, chess pieces, draughts etc.
These 2mm toys I have been doing are just playing pieces. Not highly detailed models that look great close up, a short distance away or on a display cabinet.
Where was I? Oh yes..
Size of table – One can have a reasonably sized game on a 6’ x 4’ table, with enough room behind players to get past without causing a standing Mexican wave when players have to make room for someone to get past. Also no crawling under tables, none of us are getting any younger. My first game (oh no I hear the cry) will be on a table that size.
Larger games can go on a 6x6..
I like to think this scale is a hybrid between war gaming as we know it, and a board game. We quite happily play with board games on our trips away. This could be a 3D version of a board game!!
Article by Dave Vallance
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